Transition

Monday 1 October 2007

The calendar has changed months today, and I feel like I have turned a page in my life as well. I’m sitting in my hotel room in London with the luxuries of a soft bed, a hot shower, tea and coffee at my fingertips. Back to a more familiar world, that of the wealthy. But I know that wealth is not found in the pocket, but in the heart. I have been blessed to spend two amazing weeks with wonderful people full of love. Their gifts to me are worth so much more than money or material goods – not disposable or fleeting, but gifts that will stay with me for a lifetime. I hope that I have shared that same kind of gift with them. Friendship is priceless.

Returning home, moving in time and space away from Africa, is an emotional transition. I sit and think about individuals, humanity, society, all the big issues that are easy to drown out when I’m home in my own little world. Now I face them outright. Somehow, I have to mentally try to resolve the inequalities of the world and find my place among them. It’s very difficult. There are chasms between people of different cultures, different races. I am privileged, while people that I love are struggling with daily hardship. I can’t make it better. Oh sure, I can help out in my little way, but real change is beyond my control.

In Zimbabwe, I became Amai Tumbuka, Mother of the Blossom, to my new young friends. I had not felt that I held a general maternal role before, but that feeling is now very strong. I’ve always been proud of being mother to my own wonderful boys. I guess at this stage in my life, being 46, it’s natural to begin stretching a mother’s arms beyond my own family. It’s a gift – and responsibility – of being a woman. Africa brings out that innate feeling. It is the motherland, after all.

In Zimbabwe, I stood out so vividly as a white person. I felt different than those around me, even though I also felt the same as a human being. It’s a strange feeling to be isolated by skin color, eye color, and other physical features. It’s humbling. But with African friends, I never felt that way. Personal connection changes everything.

In a few hours, I board my final flight home to Denver. I can’t wait to see Charley and the boys! It will be wonderful to be home. Back to work on Wednesday. Life will hit me full in the face! I’m sure I’ll be looking at photos and reliving those precious moments in Zimbabwe daily. And of course, I have MUCH to do now to begin editing Tumbuka. AUGH! So much amazing footage to sort through, organize, and craft into a film that speaks truly of that wonderful culture. I feel a huge responsibility to those who will be represented. It is a daunting task, but also an opportunity and a blessing that I’m so grateful for.

Last Morning In Zimbabwe

Sunday 30 September 2007

I have to write about this day…such a memory to keep!

Kesse and I were to be picked up this morning at 5:30. As I lay in bed slightly awake, I heard a car horn outside, a radio blaring, then someone rattling the gate. Voices. I checked my watch. 4:42am! It couldn’t possibly be our ride this early! I woke up Kesse (who was not amused), heard Eva going out to the gate, threw on a skirt, and walked outside to see the truck, Tatenda, and Talent – all smiles. What are you doing here so early? It’s better to be early than late, said Talent.

So Kesse and I motivated. Eva had already put a candle in the bathroom and was preparing bath water, so I told her no bath. She did make us tea, which we gulped down. Kenny and Tafadzwa showed up close to 5:30 (right on time!). Kenny brought two of his paintings for Kesse and me. I was very touched!

So here we were again, the crew and the truck. Instead of Harry, Rainius was driving. I got a blanket for those riding in the back – Kesse, Kenny and Tafadzwa. We started off, and I asked Talent if they had been up all night. Talent had gone to Tatenda’s at 2 am. They were working on the truck – new air filter to hopefully correct the problem we’d been having for the last two days. The truck basically had no power and would only move at a snails’ pace.

So things were rolling right along for the first few minutes. Then…putter, putter…the truck began to die. Kesse had the funniest expression on her face. Uh oh! We pulled to the side of the road and all got out. But then Rainius got it started and we piled back in and started toward the airport again. Not too much further, it began to die again. Putt, putt, putt. Talent was talking to Harry on the phone giving him our location. Just as we sputtered to a stop, here came Harry to the rescue in his car! What a welcome sight!

We couldn’t all fit in the car, so quick goodbyes to Kenny and Tafadzwa. Tatenda, Talent, Kesse and I piled into the car and Harry sped us on our way. It was now 6:10, and I was only slightly concerned about making my 7:30 flight. We finally arrive at the airport around 6:30, find a parking space, and walk into the airport to find lines of people everywhere. I discover the computers are down and that BA has just started checking people in by hand. Wow. I’m at the end of a line of 200 or more people. It isn’t moving. Talent and Tatenda stand with me for over an hour as we inch forward. Kesse and Harry wait somewhere else. At about 7:30, surprise! In walk Kenny and Tafadzwa! They’ve made it in the truck with Rainius! Big smiles.

Kesse finds her que and stands for her flight to Nairobi. One of the clips on her backpack has broken, so Tafadzwa tries to repair it. I guess they got it fixed…I hope!

I finally get to the counter at about 8:30. All the papers are being hand-written. The moment of truth – how much does my big red bag weigh? It’s filled with mbiras and sculpture for Ancient Ways. Talent has predicted 50 kg and I’m thinking I’ll have to take stuff out to get it under the weight limit. I set it on the scale…32.2 kg! Whew! The man lets me slide. I have my ticket!

By now, Kesse has gotten her boarding pass and has said goodbye to all of us and headed for her 9:00 flight. Now it’s my turn to really say goodbye for the last time. The boys and I share a group hug, heads together. Now I am Amai Tumbuka and these are my sons. I couldn’t be more proud! I also say goodbye to Harry and Rainius, and then it’s time to go. Now I can let my tears flow as I watch them all walk through the airport doors.

A QuickOne!

Here’s a quick update…am now in Harare finishing up the last details of the project. ll has gone well! The last week was full of more new experiences, including being given a chicken by Tatenda’s family. They caught it for me and everything, then presented the live chicken to me and requested I bring it home to America! But since I couldn’t do that, the bird was instead cooked for dinner.

So one more day before I leave and Kesse goes on her way to Kenya. I’ll stay a night in London…at a nice hotel! What a luxury. Will post more from there.

Mid-trip

Thursday 20 September 2007

Another day in town…it turned out to be quite productive! We went to Tatenda’s house to do an interview there. The houses here are so interesting. This is called the high density area, and it is filled with people! Houses are small brick and cement structures, most with brick and cement walls enclosing the small space around them. So what you end up with is a grid-like system of boxes and a lot of cement! People in the U.S. might consider these slum areas, although here, it is quite normal. There is running water, albeit more primitive than our plumbing system in the U.S. Each home is surrounded by dirt an a small garden containing kovo, or greens. This is one of the primary vegetables eaten, and it grows year round. Unlike the greens we’re used to in the States (like kale), these plants grow in stalks, continuing to produce leaves, so the plant continues to yield food. You simply pick the lowest leaves on the stalk, and new ones keep growing at the top.

Today, I got to experience public transportation – a comby bus. That’s short for community bus, and they are about the size of a VW minibus. Amazingly, about 20 or more people can squeeze into them, and so you have all these packed little white buses all over the place stopping to pick up and drop off people along the way. We were walking to Tatenda’s, about a 20-minute walk, and decided to catch one of these combies. It’s actually an efficient form of transportation, maximizing fuel efficiency and practically giving people door to door service. I’m not sure the cost…I was with Tatenda, Talent and Kenny, and they made the payment. Quite the cultural experience! Individually owned cars are rare here.

I must point out how much I stand out here in this area. White people are not seen here, so Kesse and I are spectacles. Today, little kids were yelling “marungu!” (white) to get my attention. It is not meant disrespectfully (I’m told), but is just how we are referred to. I know we attract attention, but never have I experienced discomfort, only curiosity.

The sun is big and orange in the low sky as it is almost sunset. Soon it will be dark, and no electricity o light the night. At Cosmas’ house, we’ve been without electricity the entire time. Just before we arrived in Zimbabwe, the local transformer blew and it has not been repaired. Fortunately, Winfilda (Cosmas’ sister) has electricity just three blocks over, so I’ve been taking my laptop and camera batteries there to charge overnight. Tomorrow morning we go back to Mhondoro. There I’ll be able to use the solar charger for recharging, thank goodness! Nothing comes easy though…the Center is quite a walk from our hut – about 25 minutes away – and it is locked after sunset until 8:00 am, so I have to plan when to drop off and collect my things there. Sounds easy enough, but we have so much gear to carry…2 cameras, tripod, audio recorder, microphones, etc…that adding a laptop to the mix makes it a haul indeed. We do have a truck most of the time. The roads are bumpy and very dusty, and the wind has been an issue, blowing dust into all the gear. And it’s quite a comedy to figure out what is needed when, who has keys to the Center, when we are meeting who where…a bit like Who’s On First!

I’m waiting for Muda and Patricia to get back to the house…they’ve been gone all day. We are thinking of going to the Book Café tonight, but not sure that will happen. One never knows what to expect here!

Once we are in the rural area, we’ll not have access to Internet. So I might not post again until next Friday when we return to Harare. My flight to London leaves Sunday morning, Sept. 30. Just over a week to finish shooting the project! Once in London, I hope to have wireless at the hotel (along with a shower, coffee, and other luxuries!!)
Until then…

Harare, Wednesday

Wednesday 19 September 2007

Today is my sixth day in Zimbabwe. All typical measures of time and space have been turned on their sides, which I remember happening last year, but am always unprepared for. Being in Zimbabwe is as much a mind trip as a physical one…filled with beauty and pleasures as well as confusion and disorientation!

So Kesse and I and the crew have been going strong since we arrived in Mhondoro Saturday. This process of shooting a film here is slowing emerging. Here, schedules morph continuously, meaning we often plan for one series of events, but end up with another altogether. It’s working, though, as we adjust for whatever happens in the day.

The sights are stunning, everywhere a photo or scene that I want to capture. Yesterday, we were up and out by 5:30, so the sunrise was just beginning. We went to a boy’s hut, Lazarus, who is about 16, to film him preparing for school. He cares for his elderly grandmother who is blind in one eye. She lives in a simple hut, sits on the floor, is able to do very little work for herself, so Lazi comes by each morning and prepares sadza for breakfast, draws the water from an open well (very scary…I asked if anyone had ever fallen in and he shook his head no), and bathes before heading off to school, about a 5km walk. That’s about 3 miles. Most of the kids walk long distances to get to school. It is a different world than our children know!

I love the mornings in the rural areas! Everyone is up and out. The colors from the sunrise are simple breathtaking – hues of gold and orange – and people are walking from here to there, everyone busy with work or school.

We gave Lazi a ride to the school…it would have taken him over an hour to walk there, I imagine, and he does this every day. Home too, of course. Then we spent time in two classrooms as Tatenda and other crewmembers spoke to the students.

Picture a simple cinderblock-type building with concrete floor, simple wooden tables and benches, a black board across the front wall, and 25 or so students. In this situation, the inspiration for learning has to come from within. It takes a charismatic teacher and eager students for this environment to produce successful learners. It’s really amazing.

We were at Matanha Secondary School, which the headmaster told me has 500 students. The school is made of long white buildings, a series of classrooms in rows that each open to a courtyard. The kids were intrigued with us Murungus (whites), and loved the cameras. Later, we had our lunch at the Muchiriri home, as we do everyday at 1:00, and met a young mbira player named Cosmas. He was very quiet, didn’t speak English. It was beautiful to watch him play in the light coming into the doorway of the kitchen hut. Tatenda’s two little nephews danced and danced, like all kids, showing off! It was fun. We also interviewed Tatenda’s mother. She told about how she had five boys, all born by cesarean, and that Tatenda had come along unexpectedly after getting her tubes tied. Very interesting to hear her experiences. She’s a very sweet and amazing woman!

I have to mention the women here. They are incredibly strong, both physically and mentally. They really carry the burden of all the work, particularly now that most men are unemployed. Our housekeeper at the hut,Wini, cranks heavy buckets full of water from the well each day, then carries then where needed. I can barely pick the bucket up! I see the women tending the children, walking with babies on their backs while they carry huge parcels on their heads. It’s awe-inspiring!

So back to the project…we have a great crew that I want to mention by name. Tatenda is our Producer and also the main character in the film. Tafadzwa is the Assistant Producer. He is a law student at the University of Zimbabwe, and has had good suggestions on the shoots. He will also appear in the film, as we interviewed him about some of the issues were covering. Talent is our logistics coordinator. He’s a great communicator and yesterday showed his teaching skills as he spoke to students at Matanha. Kenny is running second camera. This is his first time to shoot this type of video, but he has a natural eye for things. We’re going to go over some of the video today to critique and discuss shooting styles and tips. Deni is our activities coordinator. He has organized much of the marimba in the community in the last year. I met Deni last year and was impressed with his musical talent (good hosho!). It’s great to see him working now with the kids. They are awesome! Grace is our assistant, making sure the crew is well fed. She’s a biochemical student in her last year at University. Hari is our driver. He’s quiet, patient, and dependable.

I wish you could see the scene as we load the truck with gear and people and bounce along the bumpy dirt roads (or sometimes across fields) in the bush! Most of the time there are three or four people riding in back. It’s normal here to see huge amounts of people in vehicles, so I guess we fit right in (except for Kesse and me, who attract a lot of attention by our skin color!)

A quick funny story: on the way out to Mhondoro last Saturday, we came to a police roadblock (common here). The policewoman looked in and saw Kesse and me and asked where we were going. Hari said we were going to Mhondoro. She asked ‘why are you taking white women to Mhondoro?’ Someone in the back of the truck said we were married to family members and they were taking us home to meet the family. (this was all translated to us after the fact). The police woman laughed and laughed and waved us off….funny!

Quick update from Harare

It’s Friday in Zimbabwe…has been a long day! I arrived early this morning and have been going strong for most of the day! Will go into more detail later, but for now, suffice to say that Zimbabwe is as marvelous and beautiful as I remember. The sights and smells are wonderfully familiar. I was treated to a typical breakfast this morning at Talent’s house. His mother prepared porridge, fried eggs and bread balls, with tea. Delicious and very sweet of her to do. Thank you Maureen! (I hope I spelled that right)

Kesse is here, a friend and assistant from Boulder. We had confusion over her arrival, causing her to wait for a few hours before we finally connected and picked her up, but now we are here and ready to leave for Mhondoro tomorrow morning. The children will present us with a welcome performance that I’m very excited to see!

It’s not likely that I’ll have email access for a few days, but all is well so far, and will update as soon as possible. Zvakanaka!

Halfway to Zimbabwe!

It’s Thursday and I’m on layover in London. Yah! The first half of the trip was good. Didn’t sleep much on the flight, but I hope to catch up a bit on the second leg. Next stop, Harare!

I was so happy to see Cosmas and Beauler yesterday before I left. They’re continuing their tour, next going to Paonia, Colorado to play music with the folks up there. A very nice community! (here’s where I plug my webmaster, Adam Silverstein. He lives in Hotchkiss, near Paonia, and pretty much spearheads the visiting artist program there for African music. Thanks, Adam!)

 Tomorrow, I’ll be visiting Cosmas’ family in Harare – sisters Winfilda and Hilda, and his mother, Matilda.

Oops…running out of time. Bye for now!

Leaving in two days

Okay, so now it feels close! Tonight, I’m seriously packing – gear, clothes, gifts, toilet paper…

 I had a great dinner with Cosmas and Beauler Saturday night. Sadza, chicken, and greens, ummm. I truly love Zimbabwean food. It reminds me of the Southern food I ate so much of as a child growing up in Georgia. And my grandmother was like the ambuyas in Zimbabwe. I feel a sense of comfort around Ambuya as she moves around the kitchen, an expert at feeding many people at a time. I’m so grateful for the chance to see these good friends of mine, and to know that they’re supported here in the U.S. so that they can in turn support their families back home.

I hope to update this blog at least a couple of times while in Zimbabwe. I’ll be in the rural areas almost exclusively, so not likely to have much internet access, if any at all. But Tatenda has been calling me on his cell from Mhondoro. Imagine, cell phone service out in the rural areas! Wonders never cease. So I will at least phone home to stay connected with friends and family.

8 days to departure

I leave for Zimbabwe a week from tomorrow! Tonight I had a Shona lesson with my friend, Zivanai. I’ve been trying to learn some basics of the language. although I don’t expect to be very conversational in such a short amount of time! Ndinoda kuramba uchi taura Shona.

Not much to report about film preps, other than that I’m constantly thinking of film styles, possible shots, story lines, etc. I feel that in a situation like this, I’m primarily there to observe and capture moments in time, allowing the story to tell itself, in a way. But I have to be ever conscious of what story is being told, by whom, and how the audience is going to receive the information that is presented.  As an American, I know that I’ll see things in a particular way. But our Zimbabwean crew will be there to keep the perceptions balanced. As a condition of the grant, this is to be an indigenous story, and I hope to truly honor that as I assume an almost mentor role for the filmmaking “students” as we work together.

Tumbuka (”Bloom”)

Film Proposal to National Geographic (March 2007)

Tatenda Muchiriri is a 21 year-old university student in Zimbabwe. Weekdays, he hustles to and from classes in the bustling city of Harare, mingling with the hundreds of bodies who crowd the streets and walkways of Zimbabwe’s capitol city. His enthusiasm for education, and theater arts in particular, are obvious in his movements, rapid speech and gleaming expression. He spends considerable time each day at the Internet Café typing assignments, writing plays and poetry, and developing ideas that will travel with him to his rural village on the weekend. Friday comes and Tatenda catches the evening bus for the two-hour ride to Mhondoro. Before long, the city has melted away. Outside the window, the African savannah stretches into the sunset, and the horizon becomes dotted with the pointed silhouettes of thatch-roofed huts. People pass on foot, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, and occasionally, a group of cinder block buildings flashes by the window – beer halls where men congregate each day.  Finally, the bus stops, and off steps Tatenda, his knapsack overflowing with books and papers. As the bus pulls away, dust swirling in its wake, Tatenda starts down the dirt road that leads home.  As he nears his family’s hut, two young boys, his nephews, run to greet him. With big smiles, the three enjoy their well-rehearsed reunion, and the children look to see if their uncle has brought them a gift. The sun is about to set, and as the three boys enter the hut, the women exclaim their pleasure at seeing Tatenda home again for the weekend. 

 This begins of the story of a young man who brings his passion for learning home to his village to share with the young people of his community. Tatenda Muchiriri is a shining light in the face of poverty, AIDS and insufficient education for the village youth. His enthusiasm for sharing knowledge and ideas has inspired him to implement a program for boys that aims to shrink the chasm of gender inequality in his country. MACHAPRO is his vision – Male Chastity Program. It’s a club for village boys that teaches them about health and gender equality in a fun, creative environment. Tatenda believes that AIDS and HIV can be curtailed in his stricken country by encouraging male chastity and greater respect for women. The village boys are eager to participate in the weekend meetings that involve discussions, games, dramatic plays, and music.

This short documentary, 25 to 30 minutes, will follow Tatenda as he interacts with the boys and young men of his village combining fun and learning with fundamental change. These gatherings, rich in sights and sounds, will be woven into a story about how health and social issues of the day challenge traditional Zimbabwean values and belief systems. The film’s title Tumbuka reflects the growth that takes place among the boys as they blossom into adulthood, as well as Zimbabwe’s transformation into a new age of sexual and social responsibility. 

Tatenda, (the name means “thankful” in the Shona language), is a dynamic main character with plenty of energy and enthusiasm to drive the story forward. In addition, the individuals who take part in MACHAPRO activities will revel themselves, their cultural traditions, and their outlook regarding their own health and that of their country. Set in a village where generations have maintained traditional gender division, the film will raise questions like: Can society adjust to meet the demands of changing times in order to remain healthy and strong? Will this small village effort make a difference in the grand scheme? And importantly, how do the elders react to these new, non-traditional concepts? Are there lessons to be learned by both the old and the young?

 The sun is beginning its ascent overhead into the wide-open sky. The roosters herald the new day, and voices are heard as children begin their morning walk to school. Women come from the well carrying water jars on their heads. A new day begins in rural Zimbabwe.

Class begins at the university. Students take their seats, including Tatenda, once again in the role of student. His identity has flip-flopped again in its weekly cycle – city dweller to villager, student to teacher and back again. In either situation, he is a proud Zimbabwean acknowledging his past, looking toward the future, and inspiring others to do the same.